Frequently Asked Questions

National guides put it at $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed (HomeGuide), with open-cell at the low end and closed-cell at the high end. A typical attic roof deck or a 1,000 square foot area often lands in the low thousands. Your written estimate after a visit is the real price.

Closed-cell is usually priced by the board foot, so 2 inches costs about twice what 1 inch does over the same area. HomeGuide's closed-cell range is $3.00 to $5.00 per square foot installed at common thicknesses. We price by thickness and area so you can see the math.

Foam itself is not food for mold, but if water gets behind it from a roof or plumbing leak, the wood can still rot or grow mold. That is why we look for leaks first and why sealed attics need the air conditioning and humidity under control.

Closed-cell, at about R-5 to R-7 per inch according to HomeGuide, compared with about R-3.5 to R-3.7 per inch for open-cell. Open-cell can still reach high R-values by being thicker, which is why it is common in deep attic rafters.

Louisiana's code summary lists R-38 for ceilings in new work. The Department of Energy suggests R-49 to R-60 for an uninsulated attic in zone 2, or adding R-38 to R-49 over 3 to 4 inches already there.

If your air handler and ducts are in the attic, foaming the roof deck brings them inside the insulated space. If the attic is empty of equipment, sealing the floor and blowing in loose fill usually costs less. We price both when both make sense.

Pros: it air seals and insulates in one step, does not settle, and closed-cell resists water. Cons: it costs more than fiberglass or cellulose, it is hard to remove later, and it hides leaks or termite activity if those are not dealt with first.

Yes, when the attic is part of the conditioned space and the house's humidity is under control. The vents are closed off, and the air conditioning has to keep indoor humidity in check. We look at the system before recommending it.

Some shingle makers have rules about unvented roof assemblies. Check your shingle warranty paperwork before work, and we can tell you the foam type and thickness so you can ask the maker.

Cured foam does not settle or sag, so properly installed foam keeps its thickness for the life of the building unless it is damaged by water, fire or pests.

Louisiana uses the 2021 IRC with the whole state treated as climate zone 2 for energy. The Insulation Institute's summary lists R-38 for ceilings in new construction.

Usually yes, if the existing material is dry and clean. If it is wet, moldy, fouled by rodents or may be vermiculite, it should come out first.

Most single-family attics are sealed and blown in a day. Sealed-attic foam jobs may take one to two days plus curing time.

Entergy Louisiana's 2025 overview lists attic insulation, air sealing and duct sealing rebates under Home Performance with ENERGY STAR. Check the current amounts and rules with Entergy Solutions before you book.

For raised homes with damp crawl spaces, sweating ducts or musty smells, usually yes, because the humidity problem is constant here. For a dry, well-drained crawl space, a liner and better floor insulation may be enough.

A sealed crawl space needs some way to control humidity, often a dehumidifier or a small conditioned-air supply. We explain the options on the quote.

No. It can make inspection easier if it is done right, but termite protection is a separate service. Keep your termite contract and tell them about the work.

Not in the usual way. A pier house with an open perimeter is insulated at the floor instead, often with closed-cell foam under the subfloor.

Some injection foams are made for closed walls, but dense-pack cellulose is usually the simpler, lower-cost retrofit. We tell you which fits your walls after a look.

Louisiana's code summary lists R-13 for wood-frame walls in climate zone 2. The Department of Energy suggests R-13 for an uninsulated wood-frame wall in zone 2, or R-10 of exterior continuous insulation.

If the attic is sealed and insulated and walls are empty, walls are often the next step, especially on west and south walls. Done attic first, though; it usually pays more.

We plug and fill the holes. Paint matching or siding replacement is listed on the quote if it is part of the job.

Enough to keep the inside face of the foam above the dew point, and more if you plan to air condition it. Often 1 to 3 inches of closed-cell. We write the planned thickness on the quote.

Not over loose or torn batts. Those come out so the foam bonds to the steel.

No. Foam on the inside is not a roof repair. Leaks should be fixed first.

Not always. We cover and mask what stays, but vehicles and anything that cannot be covered should be moved.

Usually. Wet fiberglass and cellulose lose much of their value and can hold moisture against framing. If it got soaked by flood water, it should come out.

Most attics are vacuumed out in a day. Reinsulating may take another day.

It is better to remove it, clean the space and close entry points first. Covering it traps the odor and contamination.

Yes. If a roof leak soaked one section, we can remove and replace that area and blend new material into the rest, as long as the remaining insulation is dry and clean.

Yes, compared with loose fill. It has to be cut and scraped. That is one reason we check for leaks and wiring before spraying.